Author: clayt

Blade CX2 Installation of Aluminum Upgrade Parts

Friday, January 11th, 2008 @ 2:00 am

Blade CX2

I installed new rotor heads. The top head is connected to an inner shaft.
These upgrades will not increase performance, however by moving the push rods out one hole on the servo arm really made a more maneuverable machine.
These are genuine E-Flite upgrade parts and will probably never break in a crash.
Note: Make sure you have a package of extra blades, when learning, because the tips are brittle.



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  • 25 Responses to “Blade CX2 Installation of Aluminum Upgrade Parts”

    1. skid987 Says:

      [..YouTube..] Arghhh…Today my blade seems to be getting “slow” spin on top blade. Heli will spin left before takeoff. Throttle up does not allow take off. Heli tips over. Was working fine after low head replace but not now. No crashes…just started acting up between flights. any advice?

    2. skid987 Says:

      [..YouTube..] Oh well…I loosened bottom gear…took out inner shaft…looked at it…and put it back in. Tightend gear screws on the bottom…now I’m flying perfectly…Any ideas what was causing the problem?Thanks Mr. Dave for all your vids.

    3. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] Make sure when you turn on the heli, you turn on the TX first, then the heli. And dont move it at all til the light becomes solid and not blinking.

    4. kimmrock Says:

      [..YouTube..] i just got the blade cx2 and it tends to yaw to the left no matter how much i trim it on the both the tx and the unit box thing. any ideas?

    5. adslparts Says:

      [..YouTube..] There is also a hole in the shaft that the top screw on the lower rotor head needs to go into. You left that part out :)

    6. skid987 Says:

      [..YouTube..] I’m ok on the TX…however, my problem seems to crop up…then I take shaft out…replace…fly 2 or 3 mins…then slow top rotor…spin…land…I now see that I have a chipped tooth on the “top” gear or the gear that spins the lower blade…There is friction and a slight jam at that notch…could this be interfering with my “top blade” somehow?

    7. skid987 Says:

      [..YouTube..] I’m far from an expert and I’m sure Dave will chime in but:How high are you off the ground when the yaw happens? Mine always spins left until I get it about chest high.

    8. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] Sorry, I thought that was obvious, I guess.

    9. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] Left stick pushed to the left is right nose, not right tail. Can you stop it by moving the stick over. Helicopters need constant attention to hover, and this all sounds normal to me.

    10. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] They all spin and are out of trim till you get it eye level. You have to hold right cyclic and right rudder until eye level and gradually move the sticks to center at hover. ALL ETRM helis do this.

    11. kimmrock Says:

      [..YouTube..] it seems to be fine until i get out of ground affect and it drifts to the left. My trims in my box thing is all the way clockwise and my tx all the way to the right and still drifts slowly to the left when its eye level.

    12. kimmrock Says:

      [..YouTube..] i can always correct it with my left stick but i just dont think its normal.

    13. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] Absolutely.

    14. dravengary Says:

      [..YouTube..] Loved the video Thanks for taking the time to do it

    15. lolwtfhitheredog Says:

      [..YouTube..] alright dave, VERY obvious question here.. but id rather be safe than sorry.. do i love the stick on the servo-arm out a hole on both sides?

    16. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] Stick meaning rod?, then yes.. Each rod must go in the second hole from the center screw on the servo ARM. Each side must be symmetrical, so the swash plate is at exactly level. The servo arms must be level too, with the rods attached.

    17. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] Thanks kindly.

    18. lolwtfhitheredog Says:

      [..YouTube..] ahh thought so, thanks dave :D

    19. Kahlo69 Says:

      [..YouTube..] hey just to let you know that those “upgrades” are accully “downgrades” those reduce performance and flight time I know this because I went to a website that lists bad things for your heli if I where u I would takes those off!

    20. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] I notice no difference in flight, and they never break. I am speaking from hours of experience so am leaving them on. Remember, I did not replace the heavy swashplate, just the heads.

    21. hawker445 Says:

      [..YouTube..] i have these up grades on my heli, go on my channel and look at my heli vids

    22. boahnoah Says:

      [..YouTube..] the swashplate is the best upgrade for this heli. i put the aluminum swashplate and both heads it made the heli perform better.

    23. JMChladek Says:

      [..YouTube..] They didn’t decrease flight time on mine and I have them. These parts are better as they don’t break like the plastic ones do (I sheared the pins off my lower hub in its first crash). BTW, the aluminum upper hub is now standard equipment in new Blade CX2s shipping from Eflite. Only minor gripe is that while the upper head doesn’t break, the inner shaft can get bent easier in a crash. But new inner shafts cost less to replace then the old plastic head and shaft assembly.

    24. jwalker590 Says:

      [..YouTube..] i dont get you dave you buy all of these realy cool aero batic planes and helicopters yet you still buy 2ch thing good on you

    25. NightFlyyer Says:

      [..YouTube..] I like em all. Sometimes easy and simple is fun too.

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